Count of Yarn: Explanation and Varieties

What does yarn count mean?

Yarn count is a numeric representation that shows whether the yarn is delicate or rugged, showing its thickness. According to the Textile Institute, “Count is a number that signifies the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”

It’s a numeric value that mirrors the yarn’s roughness or delicacy (diameter) and unveils the yarn’s connection between length and weight (mass per unit length or length per unit mass). Therefore, the yarn count idea is brought forth to specify a particular proportion of length to weight. The count is a numeric expression conveying the roughness or delicacy of yarn used in textiles.

Types of yarn count

Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle.
Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.

Direct count

The yarn count tells us how many weight units are in one length unit. So, the more the count, the rougher the yarn. This method is often used with synthetic fibers, jute, silk, and others.

To find the yarn count, weigh a set length of yarn. The weight for every unit of length becomes the yarn count! In all direct count systems, the yarn’s length stays the same, but the weight changes depending on how delicate it is.

In the direct system, the count is used to find the weight for each unit of length, keeping the length constant.

In this system, when the count goes up, the yarn gets coarser (count↑, fineness↓).

The following formula is used for the direct yarn count system,

N = (W x l) / (w x L)

Where,

N = The yarn number or, count.

W=The weight of the sample.

w = The unit weight of the sample.

L = The length of the sample.

l = The unit length of the sample.

Numbering System	Unit of Length (l)	Unit of Weight (w)
Tex system, Tt	1000 meters	No. of grams
Denier, D or Td	9000 meters	No. of grams
DeciTex, Dtex	10000 meters	No. of grams
Millitex, mtex	1000 meters	No. of milligrams
Kilotex, ktex	1000 meters	No. of killigrams
Jute count	14400 yards	No. of pound (lb)

Denier count = (Weight in grams/1 gram) x (9000 meters/Length)
Pound per spindle = (Weight pound/1 pound) x (14000 yds/Length yds)

The Tex of yarn tells us how much 1000 meters of yarn weigh in grams. So, if it’s 40 Tex, that means 1000 meters of yarn weigh 40 grams, and if it’s 50 Tex, then the weight is 50 grams. From our talk earlier, we understand that when the yarn number (count) is higher, it means the yarn is coarser, and when the number is lower, it suggests the yarn is finer.

Indirect count

The yarn count reveals how many length units are in one weight unit. So, a higher count means a finer yarn. This method is often used for materials like cotton, worsted, and wet-spun linen.

To find the yarn count, measure the length of a fixed weight of yarn. The length for each unit of weight becomes the yarn count. In all indirect count systems, the yarn’s weight stays the same, but the length changes based on how delicate it is.

In the indirect system of measuring count, ‘t’ is used to measure the length per unit weight of yarn, with the weight staying constant. As the count goes up, so does the yarn’s delicateness (count↑, delicateness↑).

The following formula is used for the indirect yarn count system,

N= (w x L)/ (W x l)

Where,

W = The weight of the sample.

w = The unit weight of the system.

L = The length of the sample

l = The unit length of the sample.

Numbering System	Unit of Length (l)	Unit of Weight (w)
English cotton count, Ne (NeB)	840 yards (yds)	1 pound (lb)
Metric count, Nm	1000 meters / 1km	1 kg
Woollen count (YSW)	256 yards	1 pound (lb)
Woollen count (Dewsbury)	1 yard	1 ounce (oz)
Worsted count, NeK	560 yards	1 pound (lb)
Linen count, NeL	300 yards	1 pound (lb)

English cotton count, Ne = (Length yds/840 yds) x (1 pound/Weight pound)
Metric count = (Length m/1000 m) x (1 kg/Weight kg)
Worsted count = (Length yds/500 yds) x (1 pound/Weight pound)

Ne: Number of 840 yards of yarn that weighs one pound (1 lb)

Nm: Number of one-kilometer yarn that weighs one kilogram (1 kg)

The ‘Ne’ represents how many hanks of 840 yards each make up one pound. For instance, 30 Ne signifies 30 hanks of 840 yards, totaling 30 x 840 yards, weighing one pound. Similarly, 40 Ne means 40 hanks of 840 yards, or 40 x 840 yards in total, weighing one pound. From this explanation, we can gather that a higher yarn number (count) points to a finer yarn, while a lower number suggests a coarser yarn.

Conversion Example

Example 1:
On a cone, there are 9800 meters of yarn, weighing 490 grams. What are the Tex, Ne, Nm, and Denier values for the yarn?

Solution:

For Ne:
We use the formula Ne = (L x w) / ( W/l)
Here, L = 9800 meters, W = 490 grams
w=1lb = 453.6 grams, l= 840 yards = 840 x 0.91 meters

Ne = (9800 x 453.6) / (840 x 0.91 x 490)
Ne = 11.87
Ne ≈ 12

For Nm:
We use the formula Nm = (L x w) / (W/l)
Here, L = 9800 meters, W = 490 grams
w= 1kg = 1000 grams, l= 1000 meters

Nm = (9800 x 1000) / (1000 x 490)
Nm = 20

For Tex:
We use the formula Tex = (W x l) / L
Here, L = 9800 meters, W = 490 grams, l = 1000 meters

Tex = (490 x 1000) / 9800
Tex = 50

For Denier:

We use the formula Denier = (W x l) / L

Here, L = 9800m, W = 490gm, l =9000 m.

Denier = (490 x 9000) / 9800

Denier = 450

Example 2:

What length of yarn is contained in 1.2 kg of yarn of Ne 30?

Solution:

We use the formula

Ne = L x w/ W x l

L= Ne x l x W / w

Here, Ne = 30, W = 1.2 kg = 1200gm, l = 840 yds = 840 x 0.91 m

L = (30 x 840 x 0.91 x 1200) / 453.6

L = 60666.67m

Example 3:

How many kilograms does 700,000m of a yarn of Ne 30 weigh?

Solution:

We use the formula

Ne = L x w / W x l

W = L x w / Ne x l

Here, Ne = 30, L = 700,000m, l = 840 yds = 840 x 0.91 m

W = (700,000 x 453.6) / (840 x 0.91 x 30)

W = 13,846.15gm

W = 13.85kg

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